Dennytown Road Campsite 1422 to NY Route 52 1437.8 (15.8 miles, 412.4 total miles)
It was a rough morning. My tent was soaked from the rain, and none of my sweaty clothes dried overnight in my tent with the rain fly on. The sun had just begun to come out, but no where near strong or direct enough to dry anything off. It was another late start, but earlier than yesterday, when I got on trail at 8:15. Right away the hiking was very, very difficult.
The terrain wasn’t hard, but it was an 80% humidity level morning according to my weather app, with every bug in a 100 mile radius seemingly intent on gracing the trail with their presence. Not only that, there were cobwebs all across the trail, and soon I had wispy strands of spider webs crisscrossing my arms. I almost walked right into a large, intricate web with a large, green spider perched on top.
It was difficult to maintain anything of a fast pace with so much humidity. I had gnats constantly flying in my face, in my eyes. I somehow inhaled one in my nose as well.
Most of the trail was on the ridge, with regular ups and downs. Not exposed ridge with views for the most part, just a leafy green tunnel through the forest. I passed Canopus Lake, which was quite pretty, almost 6 miles in. I was hiking at a solid 2mph pace, and wouldn’t be hitting my lunch spot for noon as I’d hoped.
Every time the elevation dipped even a little, mosquitos would swarm me. I’d put on picaradin bug spray, but had to double up at the lake, because they were still finding weak points in my application.
It was hot, sweaty, miserable work. Living my dream, but still miserable in the moment. I put on my favorite podcast a few miles in, to stop having to hear the drone of bugs in my ears. My body didn’t feel sore or anything, but the humidity was fatiguing me big time.
A little past the lake, I saw a board with a rotary phone attached to it. On closer inspection I saw it was called “Telephone of the Wind”, for people to get in touch with the ones they grieve.
Well, part of my hike was healing from Frankie’s passing, and I took the opportunity to talk to him in the phone, and other loved ones I’ve lost. I talk to them through the forest a lot, too, but there was something cathartic about the solid feel of the phone in my hand while I had an emotional moment. I was glad I had arrived at the phone alone. In fact, I didn’t see a single other hiker the whole first 10 miles.
I hit Shenandoah Mountain (same name as the National park in Virginia I’ll hike through on the second half), and found a large American flag painted on the summit as a 9/11 memorial. I’m not here to make any political statements or opinions about rock painting, as that is a charged topic isn the hiking community, but it made me appreciate more that I was hiking through New York, and the impact of 9/11 on this area.
After the mountain, I finally felt the first little breeze of the day, and saw the humidity was finally dropping. I got myself to RPH Shelter, and found an absolutely beautiful spot right off the trail. It was 1PM, and just over 10 miles into the day.
Amazingly, a section hiker named Boxer was there, and he’d just gotten pizza delivered so fresh it was still hot, and offered me a White Claw sitting on the table. The shelter had everything, tons of water, bug spray, bunks, books, and more.
Boxer had already done several hundred miles or so of the AT before, and six years later was knocking out another 30 day section. As we talked, I realized I had completely forgotten I’d passed my personal 400 mile mark, so intent on making it through my misery that morning.
Things were looking up, though. In addition to food and beverage, I had a nice grassy field with plenty of sun to dry my tent that I’d had to pack soaking wet, and my socks and shirt that had been wet with sweat since yesterday morning.
RPH Shelter was so nice I wished I didn’t have to hike another 9 miles to the next one. That’s how it goes sometimes, though. There’s no way to coordinate to hit every single cool spot on a thru hike. There’s just not enough time, and sometimes you have no idea a place is so nice (or not nice) till you get there.
I found a tiny tick crawling on my leg while eating lunch. I knew it was a matter of time, since so many people have found them lately. I also don’t have my new shoes and socks permethrin treated yet, and had hiked through a lot of grass and shrubbery. I did my best to burn it with Boxer’s lighter, and felt grateful it hadn’t attached to me.
I took a nice long break drying my stuff and talking with Boxer, and it was just before 3 when I headed back out. Putting back on my socks and shirt, as toasty from the sun as if they’d come out of the dryer, was probably the highlight of the day.
However, as soon as I was hiking again, I felt completely fatigued. The sun had taken it out of me, along with battling the bugs all day. I could feel I needed electrolytes, and the caffeine drinks I’d been having definitely didn’t seem to have what I needed to replenish my body.
I hadn’t hiked in humidity like that in quite a while, because I’d been spoiled by such good weather lately. That is a big pro to a flip flop, the weather is generally nicer.
I slogged up and down the mountains, with a couple steep descents to roads and ascents to the ridge. I felt like I was hiking at a snail’s pace. The day had really improved: it was perfect weather by that point, the humidity had dropped way down, the bugs were not as bad, and the sun was out.
I wanted to enjoy the improvement in the day, but I was too exhausted. My stomach was overly full with pizza and seltzer, and each step felt like a chore. At one point, I got lost on the trail in a supremely well marked and easy to follow spot. I remembered what Goofy had told me about the lack of electrolytes affecting her brain power. I had drank plenty of water all day I felt, but I was just off.
I looked at the map, and saw I had another 6.5 miles to the shelter I was supposed to stop at. I could make it, but at 2 mph I wouldn’t be there till 7:30 again. I didn’t want to roll into camp so late again, and I really needed to find a Gatorade or something.
Furprittius (Furps) had asked me if I needed anything earlier today, and I mentioned some Propel packets would be awesome. He wasn’t sure if he could bring them that day or next, but it was great to know I’d have some soon.
I saw a deli that was 2.5 miles ahead that allowed hikers to camp out back. I thought I had been there before, and though it was half a mile off trail, I figured it would be my best bet to end my day early and try to make up the extra 4 miles the next day.
I talked to Baked Potato on the phone, who’d spent the day doing trail magic for the hikers that had passed through Dennytown Campsite after I’d left. I told him where I’d be and he was in the area so said he’d meet me there.
I was about a mile and a half from the road to the deli, when he popped up over the ridge hiking toward me, with a bottle of water in his hand. I’d just finished all the water I had in my bottles, which he didn’t know about, and he really came in clutch on that.
I downed some water, and we hiked back to the road, which helped the last bit of hiking go by faster. Tater had his car parked at the parking lot by the road, and he saved me the half mile of road walking to the deli as well. It was just what I needed at the end of such a tiring day.
I set up my tent in the lawn behind the deli and pizza shop, and I was the only hiker again for the evening. Furps said he couldn’t make it out that evening, but would find me and some other hikers to do trail magic for the next day.
In the meantime, he told me and Tater to get some food and he would call in and pay for it. I don’t know what I did to deserve this absolute level of kindness, but it was such a morale boost.
We went to Carrado’s pizza shop and Tater got a Hawaiian pizza, while I got shrimp scampi, since I’d already had pizza for lunch. Antonio was our server, and also one of the owners. He couldn’t have been more friendly and hospitable, and even gave us an order of garlic knots on the house, which were incredible.
My food came with a top notch side salad, and I was overjoyed for some veggies. I ate the whole huge plate of scampi, needing the carb load and calories to replenish my body after such a draining day. We had some zeppole for dessert, small Italian donuts covered in powdered sugar with Nutella to dip in, and I was absolutely stuffed.
Mike, Antonio’s brother, came over to talk with us for a bit as well. Both of them were awesome, cheerful people who just had a great vibe in their shop. They were so hospitable and friendly, it really made me think I’d made the right choice to stay for the evening.
True to his word, Furps called in and paid our tab, which was just so sweet. I was glad Baked Potato got some trail magic too, he’s been doing so much for all the hikers, and I see how much he cares.
I’m glad I had decided to cut the hike short, and listen to my body and what it needed. The food and rest made a huge difference. Hopefully I can make up the miles tomorrow, but I am not planning on pushing myself too hard or anything. Moderation is still important to me, and I want to keep the progress I’ve made and build on that. Hopefully I’ll have better weather tomorrow, and a stronger day of hiking.