Backpacker Campsite 1301.7 to Tentsite 1311.9 (10.2 miles, 286.5 total miles)
I was asleep by around 9pm, but 5am came early. I finally got myself up 24 minutes later, and started packing in the chilly morning air. By the time Sandals and I were done packing and had split a breakfast essential mixed with hot coffee, it was 6:30 when I was hitting the trail.
I said bye to Andrew on the way out of the campsite, and I hiked out in my Brooks. The trail was rocky immediately, very reminiscent of Pennsylvania. I only made it half a mile at the most, before I put my Altras back on and packed the Brooks back in my bag.
I was very disappointed, but the Brooks are just a size too big, and even with two pairs of insoles in them and the laces tied tight, my feet were just sliding around.
The Altras felt familiar, and I thought maybe they would be fine. Maybe I was misremembering the feel of them. They seemed alright for a while, as the trail stayed extremely rocky.
Going around Sunfish Pond .7 into the day, was pretty but unexpectedly annoying to hike around. The rocks turned into boulders at some points, and the foliage was encroaching over the trail in most spots. The sun was at the perfect angle to be reflected blindingly across the water into my eyes, but there were several nice views around the glacial lake.
The day stayed cool at first, and I hiked with my fleece on until I was a few miles in. Sandals had left a few minutes before me, but we were planning on stopping for a mid-morning break at the Mohican Outdoor Center, which was 6 miles into the day.
As the day warmed, the humidity stayed low again, and I was enjoying the third day in a row of perfect weather. I didn’t see any more bears around, just lots of squirrels and birds. There were some beautiful views off the ridge, and several day hikers out and about.
About a mile before the Mohican Center, my ankles and feet started protesting again. The trail had been rocky the whole time, as I’d been warned about the first 25-30 miles of New Jersey, and my body was telling me the Altras were exactly as I remembered them.
My ankles twisted on the rocks, and several times my toes hit the rocks painfully as I walked along. Less than half a mile before the center, I saw Sandals, and then we found a trail magic cooler near the creek ahead.
There wasn’t much in it, but I did find some Kleenex, a new gallon ziploc for my trash, and toilet paper, which I always seem to need more of. I wrote a thank you note in the logbook inside the cooler, and we hiked on.
The center was .3 off the trail, and it was a nice little spot. There was a small store, a hiker lounge, and cabins, bunks, and tentsites that could be rented. In the hiker box, I found some fig newtons I took for later.
Sandals and I filled our water bottles, emptied our trash bags, and plugged in our devices to charge. We saw some nice campers in their mid 20s, who invited us to their cabin because they had lots of extra food.
We headed over, and found a group of about 16 or so who were packing up and getting ready to leave. They had rented the largest cabin for a few nights, which seemed like a really cool place.
They gave us chicken, turkey bacon, French toast, and marshmallows, which I ate there. I also packed out an apple, orange, and a Starbucks energy drink. They were a super nice bunch, and they had plenty of questions about the Appalachian Trail, which we were happy to answer. One of them said he very much wants to thru hike one day, I urged him to, and I definitely hope he does!
Back at the center, I bought a Choco Taco and a Clif Bar I’d never seen before that has espresso beans in it. I ate the ice cream, then had a tortilla with cheese and meat from my bag. It was only 10:30, but figured it would be an early lunch.
I had stopped for an hour and a half, and I hiked out at 11am, a little before Sandals. There was a small climb out of the Mohican Outdoor Center area, and the rocks didn’t stop.
I felt sluggish, and my ankles and feet continued to hurt quite a bit, the pain working it’s way up my lower legs. My stomach was uncomfortably full, and I downed my Gatorade to lighten up my water weight. I loosened my shoe laces too, but it only helped a minimal amount.
I made it to the Catfish Fire Tower, and texted Sandals that I was having a rough day. He caught up to me while I was laying on a perch halfway up the Fire Tower, with my feet elevated on the chain link around the stairs.
We climbed up to the top together, though the very top part wasn’t open, and took in the 360 view. It was quite beautiful, and Sandals braved it out even though he is no fan of heights.
We saw two trail runners visiting for the weekend from Brooklyn, and talked with them for a bit. After they ran on, I decided I was going to evaluate my options. It was 12:30, and I felt in too much pain to hike another 12 miles, or if I made it, it would be later in the day than I wanted to hike.
I checked in with Jedi and Neon, and the Cult was on the move out of DWG. I knew they were heading to a tent site 2 miles ahead and said I could join them. I thought it might be a good idea, so I wouldn’t be alone with all the bears about, plus it would be nice to see them again.
They told me there was trail magic from Piñata’s dad .5 ahead of where I was, so Sandals and I hiked together to the spring just after that. We grabbed some water and Sandals gave me a hug before he hiked on, still heading to the shelter.
I went back to the road crossing, and laid out my tent footprint and inflated my mattress pad to hang out on till everyone arrived around 4:00. After a few minutes, I saw a couple older day hikers, Kirsten and Blais, who I heard talking about meeting Sandals as they hiked.
I said hi, and we introduced ourselves and got to talking about my thru hike as well. We talked about shoes, too, and Blais said he swears by Oboz, but got some Topos recently because he couldn’t find the size he wanted in Oboz.
They had two cute dogs with them, and it was nice talking with them before they hiked on. A little while after I saw a few women and young girls walk by who I talked to about my hike as well.
They said I’m making good time from Harper’s Ferry, but I am feeling quite frustrated today. I know my legs can handle a 20 mile day easily, but my feet and ankles just won’t cooperate.
I have a plan, though. My friend Paul Santangelo has a house very close to the trail about 55 miles up from where I’m ending today. He generously offered that I could stay there when I come through.
I found an REI a 40 minute drive from where his house in, and I think that is where I need to go. There apparently was an REI in Carlisle, PA area, but I didn’t know I needed new shoes then. They just opened, though, so that can definitely be a resource for flip floppers who need to change out gear in the future.
REI has the selection and the staff expertise that I need to figure out what shoes are going to help me hike the way I know I can. Plus, they have an amazing return/exchange program that will be huge for finding the right shoes, if I need it.
Shoes aren’t cheap, and thru hikers have to go through several pairs during a hike this long. So I really want to stop buying shoes that aren’t right for me. REI has a store in Hartford I can visit when I hike to CT, if I need to exchange. Plus they have a used gear outlet, and hopefully will buy my Brooks, so they aren’t a total loss.
Around 3, Sandals texted me to tell me there were two massive 400 pound bears blocking the trail in front of him. He said it took him half an hour to be able to get past them.
Around 3:30, Jedi rolled up to where I was hanging out by the trail, and the rest of the Cult were not far behind him. We all stopped at Rattlesnake Spring again, and I cameled up a little bit. There wouldn’t be more water till 4.5 miles past the tentsite.
At the road half a mile further, we met up with Piñata’s dad, brother, and boyfriend. They had brought eight huge grinders, drinks, fruit, and a gallon sized bag of homemade chocolate chip cookies from Piñata’s mom.
We hiked everything to the tentsite one mile up the ridge, passing a beaver pond outlet. A couple beavers splashed around while we hiked through the area. Mountain laurel bloomed all around, and skies were blue.
Up on the ridge, the tentsite was a little rocky, and only set up for 4 or 5 tents, but Jedi had assured me that the Cult was well practiced in accommodating everyone. Right away, they worked out where everyone could go, and some of us set up a little before sitting down to eat.
I had half of a very large turkey grinder, four cookies, an apple, and some strawberries. It was so delicious, and really wonderful of Piñata and her family to set everything up. We spent an hour or two playing a game of trying to guess Neon’s brothers’ names, and later on Sour Cream and Coasty joined us, just as Piñata’s family and boyfriend were hiking back out.
In total, we had seven tents and two hammocks set up in the tentsite, and I felt really happy to be included and welcomed by the group. It was different to be around so many people on the trail, and camped near so many, but it felt familiar from my first time on the trail.
I have some trauma in my past related to being in group settings that I realized I am working through, when I teared up in my tent thinking about how comfortable everyone has made me feel. I love how the trail shows me my weak points, and gives me the tools to help myself grow.
I messaged with Paul a little more, and he is actually on vacation tomorrow, and willing to drive just under three hours to pick me up in Branchville, NJ and take me another hour to the closest REI, then bring me back to the trail.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again many times if I continue to be so fortunate, the kindness I have experienced out here has been truly mind blowing. Whether from friends off trail or on, we say out here “the trail provides”, but it’s really the people that do the providing, and I cannot stress that enough.
I have 13.5 miles to go tomorrow to reach Branchville, and Jedi has kindly offered to carry some of the weight in my pack to help me hike faster. REI closes at 9, so I want time to shop without feeling rushed, since it’s so important to me to fix this shoe problem.
I’m really hopeful I can find what I need, and grateful for all the kindness and support I have received so far. Looking forward to going to REI, and getting to catch up with Paul tomorrow!