Indian Grave Gap 2138 to Baggs Creek Gap 2157.5 (19.5 miles, 2157.5 total miles)
After being up late the night before to finish putting my pack back together, I got up around 7AM, feeling anxious and out of place. I’d gotten it into my head for some reason that Lentil didn’t want me around when a planning session for the next day had gone awry, upon realizing we’d either have to go 1.2 miles off trail for a shelter or have a 7.5 mile water carry to a campsite for the night.
Lentil had assumed I was committed to an alternate plan I’d come up with and wouldn’t be hiking with the group again till Springer. The thought had crossed my mind, but I’d also not decided either way yet, and anxiety caused my mind to spin around in circles about my level of welcome in the group. The truth was I’d really been enjoying being with them, and they were helping me cope with the cold weather I’d had no experience backpacking in before.
Social anxiety had been something I struggled with this whole trip, and I became very quiet while we all were driven over an hour back to trail by Bruce Leaf. I listened to the first chapter of Half Blood Prince, trying to hide a couple tears that fell down my face while I listened to the others joke and have a good time. I was spiraling a little, trying to keep it to myself.
When we got to the road, and everyone else started hiking out, I hung back, unsure of where I was going to hike for the day. Looseleaf stayed back as well, and reaffirmed that I was welcome to stay with him and Lentil after the trail, since I was going to be in the area until Hiker Thanksgiving. I began crying, apologizing and explaining why I was acting so upset. I was very honest with him, and we had a good conversation, clearing the air as he made sure I knew I was welcome with the group.
I wanted to keep hiking with them, and I told him so, as we began climbing Rocky Mountain together. It was good to get everything off my chest, and I felt a lot better as we entered the chilly but overcast day. It was such a blessing to not have to hike in the rain. We had two more big days and two small days ahead, and just three more nights in the cold.
My spirits lifted right away from having gotten my feelings out. I’d noticed as I’d gotten older and better at communicating, when something was on my mind and I was afraid to express myself, I’d feel physically unwell until I was able to clear the air. It was a good thing, I thought, and fully appreciated when others were the first to broach a subject, because even still that can be hard for me.
The trail was rocky, mossy, and beautiful, and Looseleaf and I caught up to Happy on the mile long ascent. We hiked together, admiring the view of ridges to our left, as Happy wondered aloud if we were still in the Blue Ridge Mountains, and if they went as far south as northern Georgia. Looseleaf said he thought so, and I remembered passing a sign that said Swag of the Blue Ridge the day before.
As we were descending the other side, we caught Lentil and Flamingo as well. Lentil said she had twisted her ankle a bit earlier and had slowed down to make sure it was okay. When we reached Unicoi Gap, I went ahead with Flamingo, wanting to hike a little faster today. I was more than over continuing to night hike and was determined to reach camp before dark until the end of the trail.
Our next climb was a little over a mile to Blue Mountain, and I fell into conversation with Flamingo as we worked our way up the mountain. I’d been more hesitant to hike with him than the others so far, as it had rubbed me a little the wrong way when he’d assumed I would hike with him the first morning I was around the group in the Smokies. I figured I’d give him a chance, though, and found out we had some similarities and did enjoy talking with him for the moment.
The next several miles were easy hiking, mostly flat ridge walking with slight downs and ups. We stopped at Blue Mountain Shelter for a moment to check it out, then continued through laurel tunnels, past a tiny waterfall, and into an icy section of the trail. The ice that had formed from yesterday’s rain and overnight freezing temperatures was beginning to thaw a little. A strong breeze picked up, and ice shards began raining down on us from above, one hitting my face with a sting so that I put on my hood for protection.
We arrived at Low Gap Shelter for lunch early afternoon, where I had a PB&J sandwich. I’d used the leftover ingredients to make sandwiches for the last few days because of the simplicity and comfort of them, and how much more pleasant it was than eating cold packets of chicken and tuna for lunch. I’d been carrying far too much food and was having shoulder and neck pain, so Bruce Leaf had been nice enough to let me leave a bag of extra food with him to pick back up at the cookout at Amicalola Falls, which was hugely helpful for me.
We met a hiker named Hero in for the evening, a SOBO who was quite nice and had a great sense of humor. He didn’t have a tent or hammock, so was staying in the shelter trying to keep as warm as possible. Lentil, Looseleaf, and Happy arrived around 2:30, while I collected nearly three liters of water to carry to camp. After a few minutes, I headed back out with Flamingo, putting in a podcast while we climbed a mile up Sheep Rock Top.
After descending Sheep Rock, we climbed Poor Mountain, while I noticed we hadn’t gotten any views since this morning. Yesterday we’d passed several places where there should have been views if not for the rain, and I was missing the views. I had learned I am a very visually motivated person, and I’d never met a view I didn’t appreciate.
A couple miles later, we arrived at Hog Pen Gap, where we ran into Beer Girl, Pause, and Manchego waiting for a ride from a friend. Beer Girl told us excitedly how a NOBO attempter from this year that she’d hiked with a bit had told her he was just nearby and invited them to spend the night in his house. I was happy for her and a bit envious, but remembered how nice Bruce Leaf’s house had been and was glad she was getting a similar experience.
Feeling very cold now that we’d stopped hiking for a few minutes, we climbed up a hill to the sign for Whiteley Gap, the shelter that was 1.2 miles off trail up and over a mountain that we had decided to pass on. Around the corner, we finally reached a view overlooking the next mountains ahead, a golden hour sun shining above the ridge, a mere half hour till sunset. A steep and rocky descent that hurt my cold knees brought us to Tesnatee Gap, where we saw a couple gallons of water left for hikers near the trailhead, though it wouldn’t have been enough for all of us for camp anyway.
As the sun was setting, we began climbing Cowrock Mountain, a very switchbacked ascent of a couple miles. I listened to an album to give me energy as I was feeling quite tired by then, watching pink clouds glow through the trees. Just after the summit, we received a couple nice views, but I was astounded when we approached Green Cliff Top and received the best view of the day by far, and my favorite view in quite some time.
The blue ridges of nearby mountains were more prominent than ever, as row upon row of undulating various shades of blue reached as far as the eye could see, and the remnants of sunset glowed on the horizon, deep orange, yellow, and pink. Farther away, we could see what we thought might be the Atlanta skyline, as we’d heard and read there were a few places it would be visible nearby.
As we dropped down to Baggs Creek Gap, darkness fell around us, but I stubbornly refused to put on my headlamp, determined I wouldn’t be night hiking. I could just see the trail in front of me as we noticed headlamps ahead, indicating our arrival at camp just after 6PM. Triumphant, I did don my headlamp to make camp, and sad hi to Milky Moo, Painkles, and Shade Tree, who were eating dinner in their tents because of how very cold it was on the ridge.
I’d read it was a windy spot, and that proved to be quite true, as the temperature dipped toward freezing, and I attempted to set up my tent with numb fingers. I ate dinner in my tent as well, for the first time, as it was indeed much too cold to sit outside. I tried carefully to keep from spilling anything inside, not wanting to tempt a mouse to chew a hole in the canvas and come inside during the night.
Happy arrived a while later, night hiking in, while Lentil and Looseleaf were a bit after her. It was a quiet evening, all of us huddled inside to stay warm, me curled up with my Nalgene that I’d again poured boiling water into, enjoying the added warmth of my new sleeping bag liner I was using on trail for the first time. It had been a long day, but I was glad we’d been able to make up the extra miles from the day before, and very grateful I had a dry tent to sleep in.