Moreland Gap Shelter 1780.6 to The Station at 19E 1799 (18.4 miles, 1799 total miles)
The night was rather mild, at a low of 37 degrees, and I set my alarm for 7AM because I couldn’t get to sleep till near midnight due to prednisone insomnia. I heard Mountain Goat leave while I was stirring before my alarm went off, and I caught Dunk on his way out to say goodbye when I got up.
I was packed and out by 8:23, on my way up a small climb out of camp. I stopped to take off my fleece and gloves rather early, as the day was warming up nicely, a high of 66 expected.
That also meant I changed into shorts from leggings not soon after, a bit of a pain because it meant more time applying sunblock to my exposed skin every two hours, a real momentum and time killer, but it was infinitely better than being sick.
The first 12 miles of the day was easy ridge running with very little elevation gain. The day was shaping up to be beautiful, all blue and clear skies. I passed Hardcore Cascades 3 miles in, named after Bob Peoples’ Hard Core trail crew.
There were several more lovely running water sources the entire day, which I’d really not expected of Tennessee since most of Virginia had been rather dry. Just past the Cascades, I got turned around when I doubted myself after a sunscreen break and Far Out pointed my GPS the wrong way. I’d been right the first time, but ended up walking the same .1 twice, correcting my faith in faulty technology.
I saw a couple weekend camping near the trail, and stopped to chat with them for a few minutes, then spoke with a man from New Orleans out for a section. Just past that, I arrived at a bench with a great view of Hump Mountain, Little Hump, and Grassy Ridge, all upcoming areas of hiking for the next day or two.
It was 11AM by then, and I found myself ready to finish the last chapter of Goblet of Fire on audiobook, then switched to podcasts. I was looking forward to arriving at Station 19E, and hiked diligently to get there, taking minimal breaks and trying to keep my pace up.
I had to be careful, because the leaves I was hiking over could become very slippery in places, and I’d fallen quite a bit in the last few days. Part of it was my feet had shrunk a bit from the days off of hiking, and also probably that my insoles were so worn down. I couldn’t wait to get my hands on the new ones waiting for me at the hostel.
A couple miles later I crossed Walnut Mountain Road, where someone had made what looked like a memorial to their grandfather on the opposite side, complete with marked stone, a wooden cross, and a Harley Davison hat. I was surprised to see “Pops” had been born on 8/28 (Frankie’s day), and had passed just nine days prior to today. I wished healing to whoever had left the marking.
A mile or so later, I passed Mountaineer Falls, a trickling trailside waterfall, before realizing I’d went right by the spur shelter to the trail where I was going to stop for a moment. I didn’t want to go back, so kept pressing on going downhill toward Elk River.
The trail followed along the river for a bit, and it was curiously leaf free for that section, as if someone had cleared the path. It was almost strange to hike on just dirt for a couple minutes. I stopped for sunblock, and saw I only had one mile of climbing up to Jones Falls, where I wanted to stop for lunch.
The climb wasn’t too difficult, but it felt hard because I was running on fumes by then. I needed food, electrolytes, and caffeine as the day had become quite warm. I accomplished all three when I got to the waterfall .1 off trail, taking half an hour to eat some cheese and tortillas, and finish a meat and cheese stick combo I’d been carrying in my fanny pack for far too long.
I still felt a bit out of it as I began climbing again, but soon the music I’d queued up and the caffeine kicked in, and I was zooming on the remaining 5.4 to town. The climb was 1,000 feet over 3 miles, with plenty of flat spots to break it up.
I reached Isaacs Cemetery before the end of the climb just after 3PM, shortly after crossing the 400 miles remaining marker. Both places elicited a bevy of emotions from me, making me feel and reflect a lot as I hiked.
On top of the ridge was a lovely meadow, and I saw I’d caught up to Heat Lightening, who I’d met at the Fiddle recently. I stopped to chat with him for a moment before continuing on, jamming out to music and the thought of only a couple more miles to town.
The rest was all downhill, past several more smaller water sources, plenty of remaining fall foliage, and good music to keep me going. It felt easy as I made my way down to the road, then turned left at 4:14 to walk the half mile to The Station at 19E.
The hostel was on the left of the very busy, three lane road, and I’d had to cross twice to be walking on the safer side of traffic. Willow and Lucky Charms got me all set up with a small room and showed me where everything was.
I was one of the last to arrive, as the Mob and a few others had camped closer to the hostel to have a shorter day in. I had the shower to myself, got laundry in, and went down to the bar and poolroom to socialize and get some food.
It was a great group of hikers at the hostel, but I was feeling rather tired, both mentally and physically. The medications I was on were taking their toll on me, but as long as I kept moving forward I’d be off them eventually.
I spent some time relaxing in my room after finishing laundry. It was the least expensive private room I’d seen on trail ($40), which was covered by the kind and generous gift from my friend Sam that I really appreciated.
There hadn’t been much for live music tonight, but the others were downstairs doing karaoke. I felt drained, so I bought a few resupply items, cashed out, and laid down early, glad for the privacy and a warm bed to sleep in.