Partnership Shelter 1659 to Trimpi Shelter 1668.8 (9.8 miles, 1668.8 total miles)
I woke up around 7AM, needing to catch up on my writing for the better part of an hour, before Murray Ann checked if I was awake so she could start up the waffle iron.
She made us a delicious breakfast of waffles, scrambled eggs, and leftover cake and ice cream. We had a nice conversation about the NOBOs she encounters vs SOBOs, and her late husband who had thru hiked the trail.
She cleaned up while we finished packing and breaking down our resupplies, then headed out in the car just after 10AM toward Route 11, where KT and White Walker had left off.
Murray Ann dropped off KT then took White Walker to the alpaca hostel to see if his mail drop was there. I stayed in the parking lot of Sweetwater Venue on Route 11 where I had service to take a phone call I had scheduled.
When Murray Ann came back she dropped off White Walker to keep hiking, then we drove together toward the Atkins post office, where my new Hokas were waiting for me.
After picking those up, we drove to Partnership Shelter, and she told me more about her late husband and his thru hike in 1989. After I switched out my shoes, I gave her a hug goodbye, and headed back over to Partnership.
This time it was empty, and I took a few minutes to eat the piece of cake I’d packed out, change from my crocs to the new shoes, and prepare myself mentally to finally hike south from Partnership Shelter, my intention since 2015.
I left the shelter at 11:30, unsure if I was going to hike 10 miles or 19 miles, based on the distance of the next two shelters. I was thinking I could normally do the 19 by 7 or earlier, but wasn’t too sure for today based on my energy levels.
I had just hiked 91 miles in four days, and hadn’t slept as long as I’d wanted to the night before, needing to do chores before bed. I figured I’d use the White Walker method, and hike the 10 then see how I felt.
It was a whole new journey hiking from Partnership, into a lovely rather flat descending 2 mile section of trail, through a forest of tall trees and into a rhododendron grove where I found my first water sources of the day.
I put on an audiobook after half a mile or so, since I mentally was in afternoon shift already in my mind. At the section water source, I drank almost a liter before filtering a second one.
Since the 26 miles yesterday, I’d been parched and drinking as much water as I could. I climbed an easy mile up a hill, passing a power line view. At the top of the hill, I had a nice ridge walk, with a valley just visible to my right through the trees.
There were a few ups and downs on the ridge, but I suddenly kept having to stop to pee every five minutes or so. I saw a section hiker pass me by going south as I was breaking, just after I drank a propel and caffeinated crystal light.
It gave me energy for only a short amount of time, then just made me have to pee more. On top of that, I couldn’t tell if I was fatigued or starting to get sick, because I often confused the two.
I had a bump on one of my tonsils that I’d thought was a blood blister, but I started thinking about if it was possible I’d gotten strep from Sydney.
I didn’t think that was the case, but I spent a while trying to take photos of my throat with my phone to check, which wasn’t working well at all.
I’d now severely slowed my pace, and was beginning to think just hiking the 10 miles would make more sense. It would mean making up miles on my way to Damascus, but would still be 100 miles in five days, which I thought deserved an easier day.
I texted with Slice and found out she was going to the same shelter for the evening, and I knew White Walker and KT might be pushing the same 21 as well, so I’d have company.
Having settled that, I took my time on the rest of the hike, catching up on my favorite podcast, taking in a view, having lots of breaks to just enjoy myself.
It was an amazing day out, another one in the mid 60s, and I saw we’d entered a new phase of fall, where leaves were actively falling from the trees in the breeze overhead. I stood in the sunshine, taking in the moment, as leaves drifted around me in lazy waves, making their way to earth to end their life cycle.
I crunched through a carpet of leaves covering the forest floor and trail, at one point reaching out to touch a fallen tree with the cut side next to the trail, feeling compelled to feel the bark, only realizing there was a message on it after I’d already done so.
I crossed VA Route 670, where I found a couple cars parked at the trailhead, which was something I’d been hoping for. Checking there was no one in the vehicles, I used the car mirror and my phone flashlight to try to see the back of my throat to check for strep.
I didn’t see much, and started across the bridge over Holston River, stopping halfway across to admire the falling leaves landing in the water then being swept away.
In fact, I was soon mesmerized by the swirling patterns and light reflecting into the water, over large stone slabs that lined the bottom of the river. I sat right in the middle of the bridge, and planned a new itinerary to Damascus.
After that was settled, I pulled my stiff body to my feet, then continued on the last couple of miles, which included two climbs and one descent.
I took my time, and the climbs seemed easy at a 2MPH pace. After the descent, I crossed into another cow pasture, this one with actual gates I could open and close instead of ladders to climb.
Entering the pasture, deep in thought, I realized the loss I was going to face after this hike was over. It hit me like a ton of bricks, and I teared up thinking about it.
I knew I’d have more adventures, and more hikes to look forward to, but transitions are difficult for me, and I also knew I’d never truly be ready for this hike to be over. It was just something I’d have to process.
I passed a thru hiker going north, ending his flip flop at Harpers Ferry. Then at 4:30, I turned on the spur trail to the shelter, still tempted to hike the other 9 miles, but knowing I needed to cut myself off there. I could hike a bigger day tomorrow after an early evening at camp, a night of rest, and beginning the day on trail.
I arrived at the shelter, and Sprouts yelled my name from where she was tenting nearby. I was pleased to see her, not having run into her since McAfee Knob.
We sat together at the picnic table, talking about all sorts of things. Sprouts is a bit older than me, but very easy to talk to and youthful in her outlook in life.
The section hiker arrived a bit after me. I’d passed him twice, but hadn’t seen him either time it happened somehow. His name was Ryan and he set up his tent and sat with us for a while.
Ryan lived nearby and was on his first section hike ever, asking lots of questions about backpacking and our experiences.
This was the second shelter I’d seen with a fireplace, and decided today it was my turn to make a fire. I’d only made a couple in my life, but wanted to try, as White Walker had inspired me recently.
Sprouts and Ryan helped by giving me advice while I gathered wood and started the fire. Ryan even had a small piece of fire starter he let me use. Soon it was burning merrily, though I had to revive it once or twice.
After I’d cooked my dinner, Slice arrived while I was working on one such revival. I was glad to see her, and we caught up while I worked on the fire, which she’d been very grateful to see.
While I was down by the tent sites collecting more wood, White Walker arrived, having completed the long hike. I was pleased he’d made it, and he got to work collecting firewood as well.
It was a very pleasant evening, with Slice and White Walker both bunking in the shelter with me and helping to keep the fire going. It was quite lovely and warm as a result, and I found myself wishing every shelter had a fireplace. I was happy I’d done the shorter day, and that I had so many great people to hike around on this final solo chapter.